travel through shrinagar
After travel saying goodbye to Bhutan it was a quick trip back to Delhi and then a short flight to Srinagar for our 4 day visit. Srinagar is a city of 1.8 million people in northern India in the Kashmir region, bordering Pakistan and China. It is known as a summer vacation capital due to the popularity of houseboats on the Dal and Nigeen lakes.
Unfortunately, the weather changed before our arrival and brought a record amount of rainfall. Clouds also covered the surrounding snowy mountains, everything seemed quite wet and muddy. At home we considered going overland on the Srinagar to Leh mountain road, a solid 2 day drive. After watching a few videos and
houseboat, moored on the calmer Lake Nigeen. It was 5 roomed, opulent with beautiful wood carvings, colorful interiors and chandeliers. Immi, the owner’s great-grandson, gave us a great introduction to the city, including a personal tour. But the years have not been kind to Srinagar.
The ‘Kashmir conflict’ continues between Pakistan and India and within the region’s desire for an independent territory. The area was stripped of its partial autonomy in 2019, which did not help their situation. A very strong military presence was created. With a 97% Muslim population, in Modi’s very pro-Hindu philosophy, little funding seems to reach the area. But everyone we met appreciates the current stability and would like to move on with their lives.
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travel through Ladakh
After Srinagar we flew to Leh in Ladakh. We had a beautiful clear day and great views as we flew over the Himalayas. Leh, with an altitude of 11,000+ feet, we were definitely feeling the reduced oxygen. And the winter! Nights drop to the 30s. We spent 2 days in the city, enjoyed visiting a few monasteries and just took our time
altitude adjustment. Our third night was spent outside the city, near Stok Palace, the site of the present royal home. We stayed in Chulli Bagh, small beautiful 4 stone cottages with a grove of 100+ year old apricot trees. Although we missed the cherry blossoms in Tokyo, these apricots were in full bloom.
Then a trip awaited us – over the Khardung la pass, the highest road pass in the world, at 17,982 to the beautiful Nubra Valley. The night before, when we were exchanging messages with our taxi driver, we were quite surprised when they asked how many oxygen cylinders we wanted? Until then, I was probably a little more concerned with the busy mountain road we were going to drive on. But luckily we both made it great, up and over the pass and even enjoyed a stop at the top for a few photos, without oxygen. We were surprised at how busy the road was, especially when encountering large trucks. But we had a great driver and were very thankful not to be on any of the big local buses. Our trip to the Nubra Valley via the pass was
on a Sunday, so we didn’t realize at the time how relatively quiet the road was. When we returned mid-week, there seemed to be hundreds of road construction workers with heavy equipment trying to either widen the road or keep the road open. I can’t imagine working with a pickaxe and shovel at such heights! We were very surprised by all the “domestic tourists” as they all described their fellow Indian travelers. In fact, we saw very few other “foreigners” during our 10 days in both Srinagar and Ladakh.
Our stay in the Nubra Valley was at Kyagar, another small guest house with beautiful detached stone cottages. Rinchen, part of a husband and wife team who put their heart and soul into the property. Both are from the local area and are committed to providing a sustainable environment and helping with local villages. A fascinating tour of a local house that is part of a women’s cooperative. Our visits have helped boost their agricultural income, most of which is sold directly to the military. The entire valley is surrounded by the Khardong mountains, over 19,000 feet. This time we were very lucky with the weather, crystal blue skies
incredible views of the mountains and the night sky full of dark stars. Two days were filled with short hikes to the local hills, to the village and a visit to the local monastery. Great accommodation, food and helpful staff. We would have loved to stay longer.
We both have always enjoyed Indian food. The Kashmiri and Ladakhi versions were all excellent. Eating mostly vegetables, we were constantly amazed at the variations. The paneer dishes were delicious with the tastiest juices (gravy). At Kyager, the chef was a former chef of the Oberoi chain. I am attaching a picture of one of the night menus. We enjoyed chhutagi, a Ladakh pasta specialty in a delicious broth. And for lunch we enjoyed several momo dishes and delicious soups.
travel through Taj
We travel back over the pass, with a final night in Leh, before our flight back to Delhi. Another clear beautiful view of the Himalayas on our return. We took a taxi straight to Agra, about a 4 hour drive, to have one more look at the Taj Mahal. We booked a sunrise tour that starts at 5:30am. Being off season, the Taj was not busy at all. We had
a great guide who not only loved to tell us the history but also knew the best places for pictures. So you can just sit and stare at the beautiful building without the hordes of people! Taj still has its magic!
Now in Delhi for our last night, flying back to Boise tomorrow. Another amazing trip!
